Understand
Amed refers to a long stretch of coast running from the village of
Cucik about 14 km eastwards incorporating the seven villages of
Amed, Jemeluk, Bunutan, Lipah, Selang, Banyuning and
Aas.
The pace of life here is slow and the coastal scenery quite stunning
making
Amed the perfect place for a relaxed holiday in Bali.
Amed is the most recent
tourist development area in Bali. It was
only in 2000 that tarmac was laid on the roads. Telephone lines were
installed in 2003 and it took until 2007 for a bridge to be built over a
section of the main road that regularly washed away during the rainy
season.
This is the most commonly used base for visitors wishing to dive the USS Liberty wreck at
Tulamben and that area is also covered by this article. There are other good dive sites close at hand and a thriving dive industry has developed all the way along the coast here.
Amed's inhabitants live from
fishing, salt-making and
tourism.
The lack of tourism-based revenue, its remote nature and the generally
harsh environment for farming, meant that this area was very much one of
the poorer areas in Bali. Amongst others, the East Bali Poverty Project
[1]
drew attention to the plight of the local villagers in this area and
that, together with recent tourist development, has gone a long way to
improving general standards of living, health and education.
Amed lies on the north-eastern tip of Bali, a little more than a two hours drive from the
Ngurah Rai International Airport. A taxi service to Amed is available at the airport for about Rp 400,000.
Amed is accessed by turning east at the village of Culik which lies on the main east coast road from Karangasem to
Singaraja.
Shuttle buses regularly serve the destination from
Candidasa and
Lovina
and now that the road has been greatly improved, they take you all the
way into Amed (previously all buses stopped at Culik and motorbikes
ferried visitors into Amed).
Perama [2]
operates optional shuttle buses from Padang Bai or Candidasa to
Tirtagangga, Amed and Tulamben (Rp 125,000, min. 2 people). Depart :
9.30AM & 2PM - Return : 11AM. There is no Perama office in Amed.
The easiest way into Amed though is to hire your own transport
with a driver. Be aware that the Amed district is stretched out over
more than 10 km. Transport by local drivers is widely available in Amed.
Transport to
Padang Bai should not cost more than Rp 150,000.
If you are coming from the islands to the east, Amed Sea Express [3] offers pick-up in
Lombok,
Gili Trawangan,
Gili Meno and
Gili Air with twice daily service to Amed arriving at 9:15AM & 1:15PM.
Get around
Public transport in Amed is rare. There are
bemos (mini buses)
from
Culik as far as Aas (that pass through Amed) but mainly in the
morning. Later in the day it is almost impossible to find public
transport. The easiest way to get around is to hire a car and driver.
Motorcycles are widely available for rent and you should expect to pay
Rp 50,000-80,000/day.
See
The black sand and fishing boats of Amed
Amed is famous for its
beaches, lined with traditional
outrigger fishing boats. There is quite coarse black volcanic sand at
Amed village beach. As you move further east (and away from Mount
Agung), the beaches have softer sand and become more of a mid grey-brown
in colour. The prettiest bays are probably those at Jemeluk and Lipah
but the whole stretch of coastline is very attractive.
Salt production is a declining but still important
industry in this area. As you drive along the main coast road through
the villages you will see large open drying pans crusted with salt
crystals. Those little boxes of gourmet Bali salt crystals you see in
delicatessens and speciality food stores all over the world may have
started their long journey from these very pans.
There is
vibrant marine life close offshore in clear seas.
- Mini Zoo, Selang (at the Selang Resort), ☎ +62 85 237506739 (info@selangreesort.com), [4]. 7AM-9PM. Many
kinds of birds (cockatoo, lory, hornbill), reptiles (python, tortoise,
skink) and mammals (slow lori, palm civet, porcupine). Rp 20,000.
- Shell Museum, Bunutan (at the Aiona Garden of Health). An odd little place and a very charming one to boot. Exactly as it says, shells. Rp 20,000.
Do
Jemeluk Bay with Mount Agung in the distance
Most people come to Amed as a getaway, including expats from other
parts of the island. It is a favourite honeymoon destination for
tourists and is
very popular with divers and snorkelers. Day trips to local places of interest such as the water palace at
Tirta Gangga and Bali's most sacred temple,
Besakih, can easily be arranged.
Mount Agung with lots of
trekking options just 30-40 minutes from Amed.
Traditional outrigger boats are available for
fishing charters from the main beaches in the Amed area. This normally involves early morning trolling for mackeral.
Have a traditional
massage on the beach. Women from the local villages are always on hand for an invigorating massage, speciality so at Lipah Beach.
Enjoy nature and go with the wind on a traditional
sailing boat for diving, fishing, exploration, dolphin watching, snorkelling or just swimming and relaxing.
You can get your visa extended here for Rp 500,000, which takes a
week. That's generally cheaper than doing so in south Bali. Dive
Concepts can tell you where to go for that and probably other dive
centres too.
Freediving
Amed and Tulamben are fast becoming recognised as the best place in
Bali to learn freediving (apnea or breath-hold diving). 2 Freediving
schools are located in Amed (Apneaista) and Tulamben (Apnea Bali) plus
several other instructors use those locations for providing courses.
Jemeluk bay in Amed is most favoured, due to it's deep coral walls and lack of strong currents.
Based there is the
Apneista Freediving training and Yoga space.
It is Bali's first freediving school and they have a beautiful training
space and Yoga sala right on Jemeluk beach. The training is open to all
and ranges from complete beginners, the basic level freediver to more
advanced coaching for those who have received freediving training
elsewhere. The training is influenced and supplemented with various
aspects of Yoga education.
For more see
Apneista freedive training and yoga education
In Tulamben, in the close vicinity of Liberty wreck,
Apnea Bali Freediving Education
is located. Courses for all levels are provided in Apnea Total and SSI
systems. Training and coaching sessions are also provided for advanced
freedivers. Those who can afford to stay a little bit longer special
Master program has been developed. In 4-5 weeks intensive
intern-ship-like training people are reaching apex of their freediving
capabilities. Those who are in area for short time can try freediving in
"Dicover Freediving" 1-day course. Guys from Apnea Bali made the wreck
their kingdom and there is a big chance that everyday you will find them
freediving there.
For more see
Apnea Bali Freediving Education
Yoga
Viktoria, [5] offers yoga lessons in Amed. She studied and started to practise in Nashik, India and has been teaching classic
Hatha Yoga since 2006. Each lesson is 90 min.
Apneista Freediving and Yoga school has recently opened a
beachside yoga sala and training space in Jemaluk bay, most days there
is a 90 minutes Asana class in the evenings and often in the mornings.
They also offer workshops in other aspects of Yoga such as Pranayama and
Meditation. See
[6] for more details.
Snorkelling
Amed has some good snorkelling within metres of the shore. A reef
follows the majority of the coastline and is quite close in. Due to the
limited number of visitors to the area and a growing conservation
awareness among the locals, the sea life is healthy and abundant. There
is a small wooden wreck in only 1.5 m of water off Lipah Beach, however
this is not the World War II "Japanese Wreck". David Pickels' book on
diving in Bali described this dive site for the first time back in 1999
as the Lipah Bay Wreck, and he admitted his mistake in the meantime.
Matter of fact is that the real Japanese shipwreck is not located in
Lipah Bay at all, but just a few kilometres further east along the
coast, in the village of Banyuning and is great for diving &
snorkelling with abundant coral & fish life - this dive site is
locally known among the dive operators as the "Japanese Wreck" and is
clearly signposted with ample car parking and snorkel equipment rental
on location.
Best places for snorkelling are:
- Japanese Shipwreck in Banyuning, small ship at 20m from the beach, awesome corals with tons of fish
- Jemeluk, an absolute highlight with beautiful coral formations and loads of fish.
- in front of Pondok Vienna Beach in Lipah. Waters can be very rough here.
- small wooden shipwreck at Lipah beach
- Bunutan beach, very good stretch between Bedulu Resort and Hotel Santai (eel garden, beautiful coral, not so many fish)
- Selang beach, in front of Good Karma Bungalows (visibility isn't always good because of strong currents)
- Liberty shipwreck at Tulamben, some of which is in water shallow enough to allow snorkelling.
Diving
There is some fine diving in Jemeluk Bay both from the beach and from
boats in deeper water. After a gentle slope out from shore, the wall
here drops off dramatically to depths of 40 m plus. The coral is healthy
and fish life abundant. There are some good drift dives further east at
Selang and Bunutan but these are generally only suited to more
experienced divers.
Beware of diving after a heavy rain, the water from the run-off can greatly reduce visibility in the water.